Balayage is a hair coloring technique that’s been a staple in the beauty world for years. Although the style has been around for a while, its popularity has experienced a recent surge. Even if you’re a professional stylist, this style can take time to nail. And if you decide to try your hand at a DIY balayage at home, the outcome could be less than stellar. That’s because it’s easy to make common mistakes that can lead to harsh lines and patchiness.
At Kosa Salon SF, we specialize in balayage hairstyles. We’ve spent years perfecting the balayage technique, helping hundreds of clients achieve their dream hair. The simplest way to describe balayage is as a freehand technique applied to hair to create a beautiful, sun-kissed look. But while this sounds easy, it’s the understanding of hair color theory, the correct product knowledge, and the technique that makes balayage the art it is.
| Technique | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Full Balayage | Complete color transformation, natural look | Time-consuming, requires skill |
| Partial Balayage | Faster application, less product needed | Less dramatic effect |
| DIY Balayage | Cost-effective, fun to try at home | Higher risk of mistakes, uneven tones |
At Kosa Salon SF, we want to share some of our expertise with you. Whether you are a seasoned stylist looking to improve your technique or a DIY-er who loves experimenting with your own hair, this guide will help you avoid mistakes with your balayage and fix any issues if they arise.
Understanding Balayage Technique
To correct these misconceptions, the first thing to understand is that balayage is a hand-painting color onto the hair to create a natural, sun-kissed, ‘growing-out effect.’ But the same fluidity that makes balayage attractive to clients also lends itself to error.
Doing a good job requires a steady hand, but it also calls for awareness of placement, hair types, how different products will react to them, and technique. Bad balayage can result in harsh lines, uneven tones, and breakage.
6 Common Balayage Mistakes and How to Fix Them
1. Incorrect Product Selection Issues
Choosing the right products is vital for achieving a perfect balayage. Incorrect lightener, developer, or toner selection can result in poor outcomes or damage your hair. Common mistakes include using a too-strong or weak developer, leading to over-processing or insufficient lift. The wrong toner can leave unwanted yellow or orange tones.
To avoid these issues, match the developer’s strength to your hair type and choose the correct toner to neutralize unwanted hues.
2. Improper Sectioning and Placement
Creating a perfect balayage hinges on your product choices; using the wrong lightener, developer, or toner can result in a less-than-perfect outcome – or even damage your hair.
Using a developer that is too strong for your hair type (or too weak) can cause over-processing or insufficient lift, and an incorrectly selected toner can leave unwanted yellow or orange tones.
To avoid these mistakes, start with a developer matching your hair type, then tone it with the right color to neutralize unwanted tones.
The first professional hair colorists began offering services in the early 20th century, paving the way for advanced techniques like balayage to evolve.
3. Misjudging Processing Time
Timing is everything: over-processing can cause damage to the hair, and under-processing can result in brassy or unblended tones. Keep a close eye on the hair in the developer and rinse sections as they lighten to the target level (always err on the side of caution and reapply if necessary).
4. Lack of Blending and Seamless Transitions
A balayage is excellent because it blends natural hair with lightened sections. The color must be appropriately mixed whenever the hair looks artificial and disconnected, with apparent lines and abrupt changes.
Clients often tell me that they’ve tried to get a balayage before, but it was made of harsh lines, or that one part was way lighter than their desired look. The first rule of thumb for balayage is to control the amount of lightener that you use in one area. You want to feather it on so as not to get a streaky, unmistakable look. Another tip is to backcomb your hair in a downward motion to get smooth transitions.
5. Ignoring Hair Health During Balayage
Balayage is a chemical-heavy process, and your hair health will suffer if you don’t keep it healthy before, during, and after your service. Common mistakes that lead to long-term damage include skipping or forgetting pre-treatment, over-bleaching, or avoiding post-care, resulting in dryness and breakage.
You can help protect your hair by using bond-building products during the process, deep conditioning regularly, and investing in quality, sulfate-free hair care products.
6. Failing to Customize Balayage
Balayage is not a cookie-cutter technique. You can have satisfactory results if you customize it to fit the client’s hair type, color, and style. A few common mistakes are:
- Only tailoring the technique for some clients.
- Ignoring the client’s style.
- Not knowing the proper technique to use.
To avoid disappointment, consult with your client, customize your technique, and adjust your process according to the hair type and style your client wants.
Final Thoughts
Getting that perfect balayage requires more than a brush and some lightener. It requires knowing the technique and understanding which pitfalls to avoid to achieve a beautiful, natural balayage that your clients will adore. If you want to create a perfect balayage, take note of the correct product selection, how to section the hair, the time and blending it takes, and how to maintain your clients’ hair health.
If balayage is done correctly, it can be very effective. However, many things can go wrong, so I rarely do it but get asked to fix all these mistakes at Kosa Salon SF. If you’re trying to avoid this list of critical mistakes every time you get a balayage, then I suggest booking an appointment so I can help create your perfect sun-kissed look.
